Recommended Yarn Colors:
for the tunic
for the belt and trousers
for the hair
for the pants
for the skin
Follow the base amigurumi pattern
. Start the beginning chain stitches in green, and then do row 1 in green. Switch to white at row 2, and then switch to brown for the boots when indicated in the pattern. Link does not have regular hair; please see this pattern for his hair instructions.
Link's arm color guide:
Row 1-3: brown
Row 4-5: White
Row 6-end: green
Link's Hat and Hair:
The hat should be very snug against Link’s head. The stitch count may vary for you, depending on how full you stuffed the head, so if 32 stitches seems too big or too small for you, adjust accordingly by making fewer or less chain stitches.
Start off with a chain of 32 stitches. Slip stitch into the first stitch, being careful not to twist the chain.
Row 1-2: Even
Row 3: (sc in next 14 sts, sc2tog) twice
Row 4: even
Row 5: (sc in next 13 sts, sc2tog) twice
Row 6: even
Row 7: (sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog) twice
Row 8: even
Row 9: (sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog) twice
Row 10: even
Row 11: (sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog) twice
Row 12: even
And so on, alternating a decrease row with an even row until you are sc2tog in every stitch. Bind off and leave a long tail.
Take the long tail from the end of the hat and use it to sew Link’s hat down. That’s it! Just fold over the hat and sew it down—I find that sewing it down in three or four places does the trick nicely. Don’t sew the hat to Link’s head. Just sew it to itself. Now we’re ready for the hair!
Take a length of gold yarn—about 6 feet or so—and tie a knot in one end. Place the hat on Link’s head and mark where the first set of hair needs to go. As you can see from the main picture, you want the hair to span from right over Link’s right eye to his left shoulder.
Thread the yarn through the loops made by the single crochet. DO NOT PULL THE YARN TIGHT! You want it to hang down. There is no need to knot the yarn on every loop, because the yarn will want to stay where you put it. Remember to not pull the yarn taut!
Now repeat this process on the other side of the hat, going from the same spot over Link’s right eye to his right shoulder. Notice how much shorter this length of hair is. When you are done making the loops, tie a knot to secure the yarn but do not cut the tail.
Position that hat on Link’s head and you’re done! Use the long yarn tail from the hair loops to secure the hat on Link’s head. The tightness of the hat should work in your favor here, because it won’t want to slip off. A couple of loops with the yellow yarn securing the hat to the head should do the trick.
Start by chaining 17 stitches. Now it is time for the pouch.
Row 1: Sc in the previous 3 stitches. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Sc in the next 3 stitches. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Sc in the next 3 stitches. Ch 1, turn.
Row 4: Sc in the next 3 stitches. Ch 1, but do not turn. You need to go up the side of
the pouch now, so do 2 sc along the side and then 1 slip stitch back up to the top. You should be level with the original chain now, so continue along your way.
Finish the belt off with more chain stitches. How many chain stitches you will need will vary on many factors; how fully the amigurumi was stuffed, your tension, etc. For my purposes I required 12 more chain stitches after the pouch was completed, but you may need a few more or less. The most important thing is that the belt is snug around the waist, but does not pinch. It should be tight enough to stay without being secured in any way. Fasten the belt with a slip stitch and weave in the ends.
Now it's time to attach the belt that runs across Link's chest. Pick up a stitch at the back of Link's belt, about the middle of his back, and begin chaining.
Continue chaining until your belt is long enough to reattach in the front. Attach this chain to the first belt.